Clothing Alterations: What Can Be Altered and What It Costs
Most clothing alteration questions come down to the same three: can this be altered, what will it cost, and is it worth it. Here's how we answer them at the sewing table, garment by garment, so you can work out the answer for yours before you go anywhere.
What can be altered, and what can't
Almost always fine. Hems on pants, jeans, skirts, dresses and curtains. Waists in or out by an inch or two.
Fine, but ask first.
- Lined garments. The lining has to be shortened separately and hung a little shorter than the outside, or it peeks out. Two hems, not one.
- Tapered pants shortened more than 3 inches. You're cutting higher up the leg where it's wider, so the new hem is wider than the old one. It's usually fine at an inch or two; past three it shows.
- Dresses with a border print, scallop or lace edge. Shorten from the bottom and you lose the edge. The alternative is taking the length out at the waist, which is a bigger job.
- Jeans where you want to keep the original hem. Doable, and worth it on faded or light-wash denim. It's the fiddliest hem there is, so choose a shop that does them regularly.
Usually not possible, or not worth it.
- Letting out more than the seam allows. Most ready-to-wear has 1–1.5 cm of fabric inside the seam. That's about half an inch of "letting out" total. If you need more, the garment doesn't fit.
- Shortening where the detail sits at the bottom. A vent, a placket, a pocket, a zip that would end up inside the hem.
- Bonded or heat-sealed seams. Shell pants, softshells, some running and cycling gear from brands like Arc'teryx, Patagonia and Lululemon. The hem is glued and taped, not sewn. It needs a heat press and bonding tape, and a needle through it breaks the seal. Most alteration shops, including us, don't have that equipment.
- Worn-out fabric. A new hem on jeans that are already thin at the knee will hold for a month. Sometimes the honest answer is that the garment is done.
If you can't tell which category yours is in, a photo of the inside of the hem or seam tells any decent shop most of what they need to know. It's why we ask for one before we quote.
What it costs
Rough ranges for common jobs. Fabric, lining and construction move these a lot, and city and shop matter — a dry cleaner's back room and a dedicated tailor charge differently for the same hem.
| Alteration | Typical range (CAD) |
|---|---|
| Pant / trouser hem | $15–35 |
| Jeans hem, keeping the original hem | $25–40 |
| Dress or skirt hem, single layer | $25–60 |
| Waist in or out | $25–50 |
| Zipper replacement | $20–75 |
| Curtain hem, per panel | $15–30 |
A good rule: if the alteration costs more than a third of what the garment is worth to you, think twice. If it's a pair of jeans you wear every week, a $30 hem is nothing. If it's a $25 dress that needs a $45 lining job, buy a different dress.
How to tell a good shop
Price isn't the tell. These are.
They quote before they cut. A firm number after looking at the garment. "We'll see when it's done" means they haven't looked at the seam.
They ask about shoes. For anything with a hem, the shoes you'll wear change the length by up to an inch. If nobody asks, mark it yourself with the shoes on.
They say no sometimes. "This won't look right" or "the fabric won't hold" is a shop that knows the limits. If everything's a yes, be careful.
They know the jeans question. Ask "regular hem or original hem?" A blank look means take your good jeans somewhere else.
They state a turnaround. Three to five business days is normal for hems and simple adjustments. Same-day exists, usually at a premium.
What to bring, and what to say
Bring or wear the shoes. Bring the belt if it changes where the waist sits. If you know the number you want — a finished inseam, a hem height from the floor — say the number, not "a bit shorter." If you don't know it, pin the hem at home with the shoes on and hand the garment over pinned. And wash it first, especially raw denim and unwashed cotton; shrinkage after the alteration isn't the shop's fault but it's still your problem.
If you're in BC
We're a small sewing studio in Vancouver. We do hemming — pants, jeans (regular and original hem), dresses, skirts and curtains — by appointment in Kerrisdale, or by mail from anywhere in the province. We don't do waists, zippers, suits, shirts or bonded seams, and we'll say so rather than take the job. Send a photo and the length you want, get a firm price within 48 hours, and it's ready in 3–5 business days. Prices and details are on our clothing alterations page; the pant and jeans specifics are on the hemming page. If you'd rather hem it yourself, our guide on how to hem pants covers marking, cutting and sewing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much do clothing alterations cost?
Hems $15–35, waists $25–50, zippers $20–75, depending on the garment and the shop. Get a firm quote from a photo before committing.
Can any garment be altered?
Most can be shortened or taken in. Letting out is limited to what's inside the seam, usually half an inch. Bonded and heat-sealed seams need specialist equipment.
Is it cheaper to alter clothes or buy new?
For a hem or a waist adjustment on something you'll wear often, altering wins easily. For a lining job or a re-cut on a cheap garment, usually not.
How long do alterations take?
Three to five business days for hems and simple adjustments. Rush and same-day are possible at some shops for more.
Should I wash clothes before alterations?
Yes. Raw denim and unwashed cotton can shrink up to an inch in length on the first wash, and the alteration won't allow for it.
Do you do alterations by mail?
Within BC, yes. Photo for a quote, mail the garment once confirmed, back in 3–5 business days plus post.
Topology Alterations is a small sewing studio in Vancouver. Pant, jeans, dress and curtain hemming by appointment in Kerrisdale or by mail across BC. See services and prices or get a free quote.